1. Why Was a Monk Named Kansho Rewarded for Making Lead Powder in 692?
The entry from 692 in the Nihon Shoki states that a monk named Kansho made powder from lead. The Emperor praised this work and gave him silk, cotton, and cloth as gifts. The text specifically refers to "lead powder," not the general term for white face powder. However, it is often cited as an early record of white powder production in Japan. [1]
Some explanations suggest that this Kansho might be the same person who later held a high monk rank called Dai-sozu in 712. This view comes from historical commentary sites, but it is not confirmed as fact. [2]
If the state gave out silk, cotton, and cloth as a reward, the technology may have been valued. White powder was likely more than just a simple decoration. This raises the question: what purpose did people think white faces served? [1]
2. What Did a White Face Mean in Ancient Societies?
Pale skin is often explained as a symbol of beauty and high social status. Researchers at the Pola Culture Institute note that the desire for white skin has existed for a long time. They explain that people painted their faces white with powder during the Nara period (710–794). By the Heian period (794–1185), whiteness became a symbol of beauty and a marker of upper-class status. [3]
There is also a view that this preference aligned with admiration for China. Women in Chinese murals were often depicted with white faces, which may have influenced the privileged classes in Japan who admired Chinese culture. [3]
A similar idea existed in ancient Rome. One interpretation states that very pale skin was a sign of nobility. It showed that a person did not need to work outdoors in the sun. Since those who worked outside got tanned, a white face became a visible mark of a life without manual labor. [4]
However, caution is needed with these timelines. The year 692 falls at the end of the Asuka period, which is before the Nara period mentioned in some explanations. Direct records about what wishes were tied to white powder in ancient Japan have not been found. The connection between "admiration" and "status" is primarily an explanation for the Heian period and later. [3]
3. Was Lead the Only Material Used for Ancient White Face Powder?
The lead powder made by Kansho was a white substance used for faces. It is said that methods for making white lead (called "hafuni") and mercury-based powders (called "haraya") were transmitted from China to Japan around the 7th century. However, the exact time when lead techniques arrived in Japan is not certain; some documents suggest it could have been as early as the mid-5th century. [5]
Interestingly, ancient white powders were not made only from lead. A dictionary from the Heian period, the Wamyosho (around 934), lists two types: "powder" (shiroki-mono) and "white powder" (hafuni). The Engishiki mentions glutinous rice and millet as materials for white powder used in the imperial court. [1]
A scholar from the Edo period speculated that "shiroki-mono" might have been lead white, while "hafuni" could have been rice flour. However, this is not a definitive conclusion. Ancient people may have used different powders for different purposes. Furthermore, making lead-based white powder did not suddenly start in Japan; it had roots elsewhere. [5]
4. Did White Lead Powder Develop Separately in East and West?
In China, the Liangdai Village ruins in Shaanxi Province are a noble cemetery from around 770–476 BCE. A 2022 report analyzed white residues from small bronze vessels found there. The study concluded that this was synthetic white lead made by precipitation from a solution, likely used as cosmetics. Researchers called it the "world's earliest synthetic white lead." This date is an estimate based on the age of the tomb. [6]
In ancient Greece, a different method was used in the 4th century BCE. Metal lead was hung over fermented or spoiled liquid to create a white pigment called psimytion. While this liquid was traditionally translated as vinegar, a 2020 study suggests it may have been spoiled wine. This pigment was used for both cosmetics and medicine. Ancient authors noted that men, not just women, also used it. [7]
The Chinese method used precipitation, while the Greek method used corrosion. A paper argues that synthetic white lead emerged separately in Eastern and Western Eurasia during the first millennium BCE. [8]
5. What Happened to Lead White Powder in Japan Later On?
Lead white powder continued to be used in Japan until modern times. However, lead poisoning became a recognized problem, and its use was banned in the early Showa period (early 20th century). The exact year of the ban varies depending on the source, so it is generally referred to as "the beginning of the Showa era." [5]
Before the ban, a shift to new materials had already begun. White powder using zinc oxide was presented to the Imperial Household in 1900. It was sold under the name "Mino Oshiroi" in 1904. [5]
The desire for a white face remained constant, but the ingredients changed from lead to other substances. [5]
6. How Can We Check the 692 Record in the Nihon Shoki Ourselves?
The record from 692 is often read today through secondary explanations. You can visit a museum or library to find the entry for Emperor Jito's 6th year in the Nihon Shoki. Look at how the term "lead powder" is written to verify it with your own eyes. [1]
There is also a poem in the Manyoshu anthology that can be translated as plum blossoms blooming as if dressed in white powder. However, reading "powder" as "white face powder" is just one interpretation. Comparing how different people read the same poem can be an interesting exercise. [9]
Direct records about the wishes ancient Japanese people attached to white powder are still scarce. What new information would help solve this mystery? [1]