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Why Is the Barong Tagalog Worn Untucked? Testing the "Hidden Weapon" Story and Learning About Piña Fabric

Category: History & Culture

The Barong Tagalog is a formal men’s shirt in the Philippines, worn at events such as weddings. It is made of fabric so thin that you can see through it, and it is worn untucked, with the hem hanging outside the trousers. [1]

A common explanation is that Spanish colonizers forced Filipinos to wear it this way to prevent them from hiding weapons. However, researchers say there are no historical records to support this. This article explores why the fabric is sheer, who wore it historically, and how its style connects to Hawaiian shirts.

1. The Barong Tagalog: A See-Through Formal Shirt Worn Untucked

The Barong Tagalog is a formal men’s shirt worn at events such as weddings. The fabric is sheer, and the shirt is worn untucked. [1]

Many people believe this style was imposed by Spanish rulers to ensure men could not hide weapons under their shirts. Because this story sounds logical, it is widely believed. [3] However, historians have pointed out that there is no evidence for this claim. We will look at what the records actually show.

2. Why No Records Support the "Hidden Weapon" Theory

Researchers like Coo, who studied 19th-century clothing, state that while the idea of colonial rulers forcing this style is common, no records from the 16th century to the late 19th century support the claim. [3] Coo’s book, *Clothing the Colony*, covers Philippine dress from 1820 to 1896. [4]

Coo has reportedly said that he has not seen any documents supporting the idea that the Barong was forced upon the population. [3] [4]

It is important to note that "no records found" does not prove the story never happened. It only means that no historical sources currently support it. In this research, no other documents were found to explain why the hem is worn untucked. So, what is the fabric made of?

3. How Piña Pineapple Fabric Is Made, Taking About 8 Hours Per Meter

Piña is a fiber taken from pineapple leaves. It is ivory-colored, glossy, and becomes semi-transparent and soft when woven into cloth. It is mainly used for formal wear like the Barong Tagalog and wedding outfits. [2]

The process is labor-intensive. Museum descriptions state that finishing 1 meter of plain cloth takes about 8 hours. The work involves extracting fibers from leaves, connecting them by hand, and weaving them on a loom. [2]

Piña weaving is said to have reached its peak in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Aklan province is cited as the oldest major production center. [2]

Given how much effort goes into this fabric, who wore it?

4. The Baro in the 1700s: Clothing Worn by Limited Men

The word "Baro" means "clothing" in Tagalog, so Barong Tagalog means "Tagalog clothing." It is said that Tagalog people in Luzon Island wore the Baro, which developed from local traditional garments, even before the Spanish arrived. [1]

The basic shape has a round neck, straight long sleeves, and a length down to the mid-thigh. Collars, cuffs, and side slits were added later. The style is said to have influences from Chinese loose lines, Indian and Malay breathability, and European modest decoration. [1]

Museum explanations state that in the 1700s, wearing the Baro was limited to men described as *ilustrados*, who owned land and held some authority in their communities. [1] This is based on one explanation, so it should be understood as "there is such an explanation."

How did this special garment become widely worn?

5. How Presidents Wore the Barong Tagalog to Promote National Identity

In 1953, President Ramon Magsaysay wore a Barong Tagalog at his inauguration to show he was a "man of the people." One explanation says this helped spread the Barong to the general public. [3] This point comes from a secondary source, so it is presented as an explanation.

On January 17, 1975, President Marcos issued Proclamation No. 1374, designating May 5 to 11, 1975, as "Barong Filipino Week." The goals were to hold the first national Barong Filipino Expo, increase interest in national formal wear, expand its use, and boost exports. [5]

Later, the Polo Barong, which uses short sleeves and cotton, became popular, allowing the Barong to be worn as semi-formal wear. [1]

This style of wearing the Barong is also linked to Hawaii.

6. How Filipino Barongs Connect to the Untucked Aloha Shirt

Linda Arthur, a researcher of Aloha shirts, says the untucked style derives from barongs worn by Filipino communities in Hawaii. [6]

There is also a description of the "5 cultures" that make up the Aloha shirt: Western body, Japanese fabric, Chinese tailors, Filipino wearing style, and Hawaiian influence. [6]

Other sources explain that Filipino and Chinese newcomers brought untucked shirts (written as "Barong Talong") and colorful silks. [7] The spelling may be an alternative for Barong Tagalog.

It is important to note that this discussion is about the connection in "wearing style." It cannot be said that the Barong Tagalog is the direct origin of the Aloha shirt.

7. An At-Home Test of How See-Through Thin Fabric Is

You can try holding thin fabric from home, like a handkerchief, gauze, or thin shirt, up to a bright window. Check how much you can see through one layer, and how the view changes when you stack two or three layers. This helps you imagine the transparency of piña.

You can also compare how a family member’s thin shirt looks when tucked in versus untucked to see how the impression changes.

If you want to read more, look at the explanations from the Philippine Folklife Museum Foundation [1] [2] or the text of Proclamation No. 1374 [5].

Sources

  1. Philippine Folklife Museum Foundation, "Barong Tagalog" https://philippinefolklifemuseum.org/portfolio-items/barong-tagalog/ (Supports the origin, shape, wearers, and semi-formal versions of the Baro.)
  2. Philippine Folklife Museum Foundation, "History and Origin of Piña" https://philippinefolklifemuseum.org/portfolio-items/history-and-origin-of-pina/ (Supports the properties of piña fiber, the labor involved, and its peak period.)
  3. Wikipedia, "Barong Tagalog" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barong_Tagalog (Supports Coo's findings on the untucked hem theory and Magsaysay's inauguration.)
  4. University of Hawai‘i Press, "Clothing the Colony" https://uhpress.hawaii.edu/title/clothing-the-colony-nineteenth-century-philippine-sartorial-culture-1820-1896/ (Supports the date range (1820-1896) covered in Coo's book.)
  5. Proclamation No. 1374, s. 1975 (Lawphil) https://lawphil.net/executive/proc/proc1975/proc_1374_1975.html (Supports the dates and purposes of Barong Filipino Week.)
  6. Collectors Weekly, "An Interview with Aloha Shirt Author and Scholar Linda Arthur" https://www.collectorsweekly.com/articles/an-interview-with-aloha-shirt-author-and-scholar-linda-arthur/ (Supports the link between Aloha shirt wearing style and the Barong Tagalog.)
  7. Mental Floss, "A Brief History of the Hawaiian Shirt" https://www.mentalfloss.com/article/66921/brief-history-hawaiian-shirt (Supports the account of Filipino people bringing untucked shirts.)