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How Are Butter Rolls Made, and Why Shouldn't You Roll the Dough Too Tightly?

Category: History & Culture

Recipes for home-made butter rolls from flour manufacturers often include a specific warning: "If you roll it too tightly, it will not rise well." [2] This seems strange because a roll is, by definition, a rolled bread. Yet, the method requires a certain looseness. The reason is not explained in the recipe itself, but it may relate to the fact that the dough needs to expand to about twice its size after rolling, so leaving room may be meaningful. [2]

The basic technique involves shaping the dough into a cone, stretching it long with a rolling pin, and rolling it from the wide end. [2] This article looks at the exact ratios of ingredients, the steps before and after rolling, and one example from school lunches to understand why the shape matters.

1. Not Every Bakery Roll Is Made by Rolling Dough

When you picture a roll from a bakery, you likely imagine a long strip of dough curled up, with one end thicker than the other. However, not all breads called "rolls" are actually rolled. [1] According to Wikipedia, the English word "roll" broadly refers to any small, single-serving bread that is rounded or elongated. [1]

In Japan, when people say "roll bread," they usually think of the butter and egg dough that is stretched and rolled, a style said to originate from American table rolls. [1] But there are rolls that are not rolled at all. For example, a "butter flake roll" is made by layering thin sheets of butter with dough, placing it in a muffin tin, and baking it so the layers spread upward. [1] This article focuses on the rolled type commonly seen in Japan. So, what exactly goes into the dough before it is rolled?

2. What Butter Rolls Contain: Flour, Butter, Eggs, and Sugar

Let’s look at the ratios in a standard home recipe for butter rolls provided by Nippn. [2] The recipe uses 240 g of strong flour and 60 g of weak flour, totaling 300 g. [2] The sugar, unsalted butter (or margarine), and eggs are each 30 g. This means each of these ingredients is 10% of the flour weight. [2] Salt, yeast, and skim milk are 6 g each (2%), and hot water is 171 g (57%). [2]

This is just one example from one company, not the only correct formula. However, knowing that butter, eggs, and sugar each make up 10% of the flour helps you imagine a soft dough, different from ordinary Japanese shokupan (sliced white bread). [2]

Flour is classified by protein content into strong, medium, and weak types, with strong flour used mainly for bread. [3] This recipe mixes 80% strong flour with 20% weak flour. [2] When you add water to flour and knead it, two types of proteins combine to form gluten, creating stickiness and elasticity. This forms the framework of the bread dough. [4] Fats like butter are said to improve the stretchiness of the dough and contribute to volume and a soft texture when baked. [6] However, this explanation applies to fats in general, so we cannot attribute this effect solely to butter.

With the framework and fats ready, it is time to roll. How is it done?

3. How to Shape Butter Roll Dough into a Cone and Roll It

The recipe instructions are specific. [2] First, flatten the rounded dough and fold the top and bottom thirds inward. Then, shape it into a cone and stretch it long with a rolling pin. Finally, roll it starting from the wide end. [2]

The instructions advise stretching the dough little by little rather than all at once. Because you start rolling from the wide side, the finished shape has one thick end and one thin end. [2]

The recipe also warns that rolling the dough tightly and many times will make it rise poorly. [2] The instructions do not explain why. The dough will expand further after this step. Leaving room in the roll may be important for that expansion, but this is a guess by the writer, not a stated fact. [2] What happens to the rolled dough next?

4. Rising at 36°C and Baking Rolls with Egg Wash

After rolling, place the rolls on a baking tray with the seam facing down. Let them rest at about 36°C (97°F) for 30 to 40 minutes until they double in size. [2]

The rising is caused by the action of yeast. Yeast breaks down sugar in the dough to produce carbon dioxide, and the gluten membrane traps this gas, causing the dough to expand. [5] Temperature and time can differ depending on the specific recipe and process. [2]

Once risen, lightly brush the surface with an egg wash. This wash is made by mixing 1 part egg with 1/2 part water (a 2:1 ratio). [2] Then, bake in an oven at about 180°C (356°F) for about 10 minutes, until the whole roll turns golden brown. [2] This completes the cycle of rolling, rising, and baking. But when did this bread become common in Japan?

5. How School Lunches Spread Bread Eating in Japan from 1946

Japan’s school lunch program began in 1946 when elementary schools served koppe pan (a simple bread roll) and milk. [7] Around 1955, large bread factories began opening across the country. It is said that bread production volume reached more than six times the pre-war maximum. [7]

A display of school lunch menus by decade from the Saitama School Lunch Association shows a menu from 1975 that included "butter roll pan." [8] The meal also included milk, cheese roll fry, and melon. The previous year, 1974, featured grape bread. [8] This does not prove that butter rolls appeared in school lunches for the first time in 1975; it is just one example from the records.

Another statistic shows the spread of bread. In 2011, the Ministry of Internal Affairs and Communications household survey showed that bread purchases exceeded rice purchases in value for the first time. [7] This compares purchase amounts, not the volume of food eaten. [7]

You can verify the shape of rolled bread yourself.

6. How to Tear a Roll Apart and Find Its Layers and Seam

To see the structure, buy one roll, wash your hands, and tear it apart by hand. Do not use tools. Count how many layers of the spiral exist and see if the number differs between the thick and thin ends. [2]

Since the recipe says to bake with the seam facing down, look at the bottom of the bread to find the mark of the rolled end. [2]

You can also explore history. The Saitama School Lunch Association’s page on "Replica Menus by Era" lets you see how bread types changed over the decades. [8]

Safety Note: Ovens are very hot. Be careful of burns and always do this activity with a parent or guardian.

Sources

  1. Wikipedia "Roll Pan" https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E3%83%AD%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AB%E3%83%91%E3%83%B3 (Explains the broad definition of rolls and the origin of Japanese roll bread.)
  2. Nippn "How to Make Butter Rolls" https://www.nippn.co.jp/entertainment/breadmaking/detail/1219435_10034.html (Provides the specific recipe, ratios, rolling technique, and baking instructions.)
  3. Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries "Wheat Consumption" https://www.maff.go.jp/tokai/seisan/shinko/mugi/wheat/shohi/index.html (Describes the classification of wheat flour by protein content.)
  4. Kyoto Prefectural Kumihama High School "Food Manufacturing Series" https://www.kyoto-be.ne.jp/kumihama-hs/pdf16/160525guruten.pdf (Explains how gluten forms from wheat proteins and water.)
  5. Nagoya University OCW "Why Bread Rises" https://ocw.nagoya-u.jp/files/56/bread.pdf (Details the role of yeast fermentation and carbon dioxide in dough expansion.)
  6. Mama Pan "Fats and Oils" https://shopping.geocities.jp/mamapan/event/basickey/ingredients/ingredients08.html (Discusses the general effect of fats on dough texture and volume.)
  7. Yamazaki Baking "History of Bread" https://www.yamazakipan.co.jp/stylebook/pan-history/chapter/index06.html (Covers the history of school lunches and the rise in bread consumption in Japan.)
  8. Saitama School Lunch Association "Replica Menus by Era" https://www.saigaku.or.jp/info/rep/ (Provides specific school lunch menu examples from 1974 and 1975.)