1. When Were the Gates of Yokohama Chinatown Actually Built?
Yokohama Chinatown is described as a bustling town with over 600 shops, featuring pailou built according to feng shui principles [3]. However, research from the University of Tsukuba states that Chinese-style structures like pailou and temples did not exist in the pre-war era; they were built after the war [1]. According to the Yokohama Naka Ward chronology, the "first pailou in Japan" was completed in February 1955 at the entrance near Satsuma-cho, with a completion ceremony held [2]. This gate featured a plaque reading "Chinatown." The same research suggests that the term "Chinatown" became established around this time as a name for the northern side of the former reclaimed foreign settlement [1]. Note that this is a researcher's view and does not mean the word was never used before. What was the town like before the gates? It is important to note that descriptions mention "10 pailou and temples," which does not mean there were only 10 pailou [1].
2. Why Did Chinese People Gather in Yokohama Before the Gates Existed?
When Yokohama opened its port in 1859, foreign settlements were created, and trade began between foreign and Japanese merchants. A key figure in this process was the Chinese intermediary, known as a "maiban," who stood between the two groups [1]. Without someone to bridge language and custom differences, business could not proceed. These Chinese intermediaries formed a community within the foreign settlement. Research suggests that the presence of the Kantei-byo temple encouraged Chinese people to live together in the former reclaimed settlement [1][3]. Kantei-byo enshrines Guan Yu, a god known for business prosperity. Thus, the workplace and spiritual support were located close together. The town was devastated by the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923 but was rebuilt [1]. The gates appeared much later, after the war. In Yokohama, Chinese people gathered as invited trade mediators within the settlement. Did Kobe develop in the same way?
3. Why Did Chinese People Open Shops West of Kobe’s Foreign Settlement?
Kobe opened its port in 1868. Unlike Yokohama, there was no treaty between the Qing Dynasty and Japan at that time. As a result, except for some servants, Chinese people could not live inside the foreign settlement [4]. Consequently, they gathered in the "mixed zone" immediately west of the settlement, an area where foreigners and Japanese could live together. Here, they started businesses such as general goods stores, pork shops, and restaurants [5]. The lack of places to live actually created a distinct town. The first Nankin-machi was a narrow area, about 160 meters (525 feet) east-west and 80 meters (262 feet) north-south. It housed general goods stores, pork shops, herbal medicine shops, fresh food stores, and tailors [4]. The population grew rapidly. While there were only about 10 Chinese people in Kobe in the year the port opened, the number rose to 240 within a few months. By 1879, there were 617 people, and by 1893, about 1,060 [4]. Why is it called "Nankin" (Nanking) Town?
4. Where Does the Name “Nankin-machi” Come From, and When Were Kobe’s Gates Added?
One theory suggests that the name "Nankin-machi" comes from the fact that many Chinese involved in the Nagasaki trade during the Edo period came from the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River near Nanjing [4]. This is just one theory, proposing that the name used by Chinese people in Nagasaki was carried over to Kobe. Gates were built in this town much later. In 1981, a plan was created for the "Nankin-machi Reconstruction and Environmental Improvement Project," leading to the construction of three gate towers: Changan Gate to the east, Xi'an Gate to the west, and Haiying Gate to the south [5]. The town's Spring Festival event was designated as a local intangible folk cultural property of Kobe City in 1997 [5]. In Kobe, as in Yokohama, the time the town was born and the time the gates were completed were far apart. What about "Shinchi" in Nagasaki?
5. How Did Nagasaki’s Chinatown, “Shinchi,” Begin as Reclaimed Land for Warehouses?
In Nagasaki during the Edo period, there was an enclosed area for Chinese people called the "Tobin Yashiki" (Chinese Residence). It was completed in 1689, and all the Chinese residents (Tōjin) who had previously stayed in private homes were moved there. The main purpose was believed to be preventing illegal trade [6]. "Shinchi" is a different location. It began in 1702 when the sea at Umei-saki was reclaimed to build "Shinchi Zosho," a warehouse for Chinese ship cargo [7]. The land was called "Shinchi" (New Land) because it was newly created. Later, this area became a Chinatown [7]. Today, the Shinchi Chinatown has about 30 to 40 shops lined up at the crossroads, though numbers vary by source. The four gates at the entrances are said to have been built in correct east-west-north-south positions based on feng shui, with materials and craftsmen brought from Fuzhou [7]. What do we see when we compare these three towns?
6. How Are the Beginnings of the Three Chinatowns Different?
The beginnings of these three towns were completely different. Yokohama started as a place where Chinese trade mediators gathered in the foreign settlement. Kobe started as a place where Chinese people, unable to live in the settlement due to lack of treaties, opened shops in the adjacent mixed zone. Nagasaki started as reclaimed land for warehouses that later became a Chinatown. The "typical Chinatown appearance" was organized long after the towns were born in Yokohama and Kobe. Yokohama’s first pailou was in 1955, and Kobe’s gate plan was in 1981. Nagasaki’s gates were built with materials and craftsmen from Fuzhou. When you look up at the gates, ask yourself: who was there, and what were they doing, before the gates existed? This question might change how you see the usual scenery.
7. How Can You Investigate Chinatown Gates Yourself?
Today, you can look for photos of Chinatowns and compare the characters and decorations on the gates. Finding which gate has the plaque reading "Chinatown" can be an interesting discovery. If you visit a nearby Chinatown, observe how many gates there are and which ones look newer. You can verify the relationship between the town's origin and the gates with your own eyes. For official information, the Yokohama City tourism site, the Hyogo Prefecture webpage, and the Nagasaki City official site introduce the history of each town.