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Why Do Cream Puffs Have a Big Empty Space Inside?

Category: Technology

Choux pastry shells do not use rising agents like baking powder or yeast. Yet, when baked, they become large hollow cavities. What makes them expand? This article explores the role of steam, the meaning of cooking twice, and the origin of the name.

1. How Water in the Dough Makes Choux Pastry Puff Up

Ordinary bread and cakes rise using gas produced by yeast or baking powder. However, choux pastry dough contains none of these ingredients. According to explanations from patisseries, the expansion is caused by the force of heated steam. For this to work, the dough must have enough elasticity to hold its puffed shape [1].

At standard atmospheric pressure, water boils and turns vigorously into steam at about 100 degrees Celsius (212 degrees Fahrenheit). The more water in the dough, the more steam is produced, providing more material to push the dough outward [2]. English-language cooking resources also explain that choux dough puffs up due to the steam created by its high water content [2].

Just as a kettle lid lifts when water boils, water expands greatly in volume when it changes to steam. This force pushes the soft dough from the inside, like inflating a balloon. However, the dough does not stretch as much as a balloon, and it needs a mechanism to keep the expanded shape. This leads to the next question.

2. Why the Dough Is Cooked in a Pot Before Baking

Choux pastry begins by heating water and fat (such as butter) in a pot, then adding flour and mixing it. This is the first heating stage. A paper by researchers at Hiroshima University states that the success of this first heating is a crucial point for making good shells, and it can be difficult for those with little experience [3].

While cooking, the starch in the flour gelatinizes, allowing it to absorb a large amount of water [2]. Raw flour before heating cannot hold this much moisture. The more water present, the more steam will be produced later during baking.

After cooling slightly, eggs are mixed in to create a dough thick enough to pipe out [2]. Adding eggs is not just for adjusting consistency. As seen later, the protein in the eggs hardens during baking, helping to support the puffed shape.

In short, soaking the flour with water in the pot prepares the dough to produce lots of steam and expand well when baked.

3. Why Choux Pastry Collapses If You Open the Oven

In the second heating stage, recipes often suggest starting at a high temperature, such as 200 degrees Celsius, to puff the dough quickly, then lowering the temperature to bake it firm [5]. Temperature and time vary depending on home ovens and specific recipes.

During baking, proteins from the eggs and other ingredients harden with heat, forming walls that support the puffed shell. It is also said that the dough membrane must not let steam escape easily and must be stretchable [6]. Note that this explanation is based on an article written for university students.

Many recipes warn against opening the oven during baking. A sudden drop in temperature can cause the dough to collapse instead of puffing up [5]. It is thought that if the force of the steam weakens before the walls have hardened, the puffed shape cannot be maintained.

Soaking water in the pot, turning it to steam in the oven, and hardening the shape with protein: the two heating stages have these distinct roles.

4. Does the Name "Chou" Mean Cabbage? Where It Comes From

"Chou" is the French word for cabbage. The name is said to come from the shape of the baked shell, which resembles a cabbage. Tracing the etymology leads to a phrase meaning "cream-filled cabbage," not cabbage-filled [7]. It is not related to the English word "shoe" [7].

The surface of the puffed shell is cracked and bumpy. Many people may have felt it looked just like the overlapping, rounded leaves of a cabbage.

Another theory exists. English Wikipedia notes that the name for choux pastry (pâte à choux) may have evolved from the French phrase "pâte à chaud," meaning "hot dough" [4]. While the cabbage theory is widely known, it is not the only possible answer.

5. When Did Japan Start Calling Cream Puffs "Chou Cream"?

The oldest example of the word "chou cream" in Japanese literature is found in the 1907 novel "Futon" by Tayama Katai, cited by the Dainihon Kokugo Daijiten. In the scene, a character opens a souvenir package to find the chou cream his sister liked [7]. This is the oldest cited example, not necessarily the first time it appeared in Japan.

According to a Japaaan article, commercial production in Japan began in 1884 by Yonezawa Fugeido, and the dessert appears frequently in the 1904 book "Shokudo Gaku" [8]. There is a theory that it was introduced during the late Edo period, but a clear year cannot be determined.

It became a widespread treat for ordinary people around the 1960s (Showa 30s), when refrigerators became common [8]. Fresh cream and custard spoil easily, so being able to store them cold helped bring them into homes.

Sources disagree on the French origin. The Encyclopedia Nipponica writes that it is a confection that has existed in France since the 17th century [7]. English Wikipedia states that the story of it being invented by Catherine de' Medici's pastry chef in the 16th century is a myth [4]. The origin cannot be pinned to one single answer.

6. How to Break Open a Store-Bought Cream Puff and Look Inside

If you buy a cream puff, wash your hands and gently break it in half on a clean plate before eating. It is soft, so use your hands carefully.

Is there one large hollow space inside? Or are there many small holes? Where is the shell wall thick, and where is it thin? Look for traces of where steam pushed from the inside. Draw what you see. If you can compare puffs from different shops or types of sweets, you might find differences in how they puffed up.

Among the sources used here, explanations about the puffing of choux shells are available in Japanese from a patisserie's explanation [1] and a summary of a domestic research paper [3]. The disagreement about the name's origin can be checked by comparing the dictionary [7] and English Wikipedia [4].

Sources

  1. Creme de la Creme "About Choux Cream" https://www.cremedelacreme.co.jp/about/choualacreme.php (Explains that steam is the cause of expansion.)
  2. America's Test Kitchen "The Science of How Steam Leavens the Dough" https://www.americastestkitchen.com/lessons/articles/2285-the-science-of-how-steam-leavens-the-dough (Discusses steam and starch gelatinization; English source.)
  3. Yuko Yukitomo & Keiko Igawa (1998) "Properties of Choux Dough Using Roasted Wheat Flour..." https://hiroshima.repo.nii.ac.jp/records/2009383 (Notes the importance of the first heating stage.)
  4. Wikipedia "Choux pastry" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choux_pastry (Covers alternative etymology theories and origin myths; secondary source, English.)
  5. macaroni "Choux Shell Recipe" https://macaro-ni.jp/82198?page=3 (Provides an example baking method and warns against opening the oven.)
  6. American University, Food Fueled "Choux Pastry: A Study of Challenges..." https://edspace.american.edu/foodfueled/issues/volume-2/choux-pastry-a-study-of-challenges-and-techniques-for-successful-preparation/ (Explains how proteins harden to form walls; student article, English.)
  7. Kotobank "Chou Cream" (Dainihon Kokugo Daijiten, Encyclopedia Nipponica) https://kotobank.jp/word/%E3%82%B7%E3%83%A5%E3%83%BC%E3%82%AF%E3%83%AA%E3%83%BC%E3%83%A0 (Details the meaning of the name and oldest Japanese usage.)
  8. Japaaan "How Did the National Sweet Chou Cream Develop in Japan?" https://mag.japaaan.com/archives/203042/2 (Covers timing of commercialization and popularity in Japan; web article.)