1. Were the Red Cheeks on Haniwa Clay Figures Just Decoration?
In the Kofun period, some human-shaped clay figures called haniwa had red pigment applied to their left and right cheeks [1]. The application was not like modern lipstick or blush; it looked more like placing a red circle or line on the face. A 3rd-century text, the *Wei Zhi* (Chronicles of Wei), describes people in Japan applying red pigment to their bodies [1]. From this, some explanations suggest that red carried meanings related to life or magic [1]. However, it is not known if the red on the clay figures had the exact same meaning. We cannot say for sure. Still, the idea that early makeup might have been about "protection" rather than just "looking beautiful" is an important clue.
Red was not used only in Japan. To understand how makeup could be protective, we can look at black eye paint from far away in ancient Egypt.
2. Was Ancient Egyptian Black Eye Paint a Medicine for the Eyes?
In 2010, a French research team analyzed makeup containers held by the Louvre Museum that came from ancient Egypt [2]. They found that the black powder contained lead compounds. When these lead compounds were tested on skin cells in a lab, the amount of nitric oxide produced by the cells was estimated to increase by up to about 240% [2]. This number is an estimate based on the amount of lead in the pigment, not a direct measurement of what happens in a human face. Nitric oxide is a substance involved when the body fights bacteria and other invaders.
The research team proposed that this black outline around the eyes might have helped prevent eye infections [2]. Ancient Egyptian documents also link makeup to protection from illness, suggesting people of all social classes used it daily [3]. It is important to note that this is a hypothesis. The study tested the pigment in containers and lab-grown cells; it did not directly test the effect on real people using the makeup.
Of the four lead compounds found, two do not exist naturally and are said to take about 30 days to make [3]. This suggests that ancient Egypt had people who could create these chemical compounds. Red was used for protection in Japan, and black might have been for protection in Egypt. So, what was white powder used for?
Lead is highly toxic and is not recommended by modern safety standards [2].
3. Where Did Japan's White Face Powder (Oshiroi) Come From, and Why Did It Change?
White face powder, known as *oshiroi*, is said to have come from China around the 7th century [4]. This included lead white, a white pigment made with lead. Japan began making it domestically as well. Records in the *Nihon Shoki* (Chronicles of Japan) suggest that domestic production existed by 692 [4]. There is also an explanation that during the reign of Empress Jito, a monk named Kansho presented lead powder and was praised. This information comes from encyclopedia entries, so it should be understood as "records are said to exist."
Lead white was widely used. However, lead is harmful to the body, and poisoning became a problem for people who used it continuously. Because of this health risk, the manufacture of lead-containing powder was banned by the end of 1933, and sales were banned by the end of 1934 [4]. It was replaced by zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. White makeup has a history that involves rethinking material safety, not just beauty.
4. What Did the Three Makeup Colors of the Edo Period Reveal?
In the Edo period, makeup centered on white powder (*oshiroi*), red (*beni*), and black for teeth and eyebrows [6]. In terms of color, it was just three colors: white, red, and black. Yet, it is said that these colors could show a person’s social rank, age, and whether they were married or single [6].
During the Genroku era (1688–1704), blackened teeth and eyebrow makeup became linked to women’s coming-of-age ceremonies and weddings [1]. This means makeup became part of a rite of passage. It served as a way to tell others that someone had become an adult or was married, rather than just reflecting personal preference.
Fashion also changed. In the early Edo period, during the time of Shogun Iemitsu, light makeup became popular among courtesans and eventually spread to ordinary women [1]. Tastes changed over time. In Edo, makeup had roles such as marking social status and following fashion trends. How did this system change in the Meiji era?
5. How Did Japanese Makeup Change During Westernization in the Meiji Era?
In 1870, the Meiji government issued an order banning blackened teeth and plucked eyebrows for imperial family members and nobles [5]. This ban applied only to these specific groups, not to all citizens in Japan. Around this same time, makeup habits began to shift.
Knowledge from medicine started being used in cosmetics. Shiseido was founded in 1872 as Japan’s first Western-style pharmacy [7]. In 1897 (Meiji 30), the company entered the cosmetics industry and launched a lotion called "Eudermine" [7]. Because of its red color, it was called "Shiseido’s Red Water." Shiseido started as a pharmacy and began selling lotions. This is an example of medical knowledge entering the making of cosmetics.
6. How Can You Find Traces of Makeup in Art and Museums?
To check for red on clay figures, you can look at books about Kofun period tombs in libraries or museum catalogs. Look closely at the faces of human-shaped haniwa to see if red pigment is visible.
Edo-period woodblock prints (*ukiyo-e*) also show red lips and eyebrow shapes. You cannot determine if a person in a print was married just by looking at the image. Instead, observe how the lips and eyebrows are drawn and how makeup is distinguished from other features. Since styles varied by time and place, enjoy noticing "how it is drawn."
Isehan is a *beni* shop founded in 1825 (Bunsei 8). It continues to make "Komachi Beni," a lipstick that shines with an iridescent color like the jewel beetle [8]. This shine is said to be proof of high quality. This is an example of old makeup traditions continuing today.