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How Did Japan's Cheap Candy Shops (Dagashiya) Become Part of Children's Lives?

Category: History & Culture

The owner of an old candy shop in Tokyo says that only four types of sweets are now sold for 10 yen (excluding tax).[8] How have dagashiya and their prices changed over time? But why did these sweets become affordable for children in the first place?

By examining the origin of the name "dagashi," the "ichimon" shops of the Meiji era, their connection to monja-yaki, and recent price increases, we can trace the path of these humble stores.

1. What the Owner of Japan's Oldest Dagashiya, Kamikawaguchi-ya, Says About Its History

Kamikawaguchi-ya in Tokyo is said to have opened in 1781 (the first year of the Tenmei era) and is often introduced as "Japan's oldest dagashiya."[8] The owner of this shop states that there are now only four types of sweets sold for 10 yen (excluding tax), and that prices for dagashi have risen across the board in recent years.[8]

However, this shop was not always a dagashiya in its current form. Another article notes that it became a modern dagashiya in the 1950s (Showa 30s) because materials for other products became unavailable.[1] Even long-standing shops have changed what they sell to match the times.

This is the story of one shop owner and may not reflect the situation of all dagashiya across the country. We use it here as an entry point to explore the history of these stores.

2. How "Dagashi" Was Defined as the Opposite of "Jogashi" in the Edo Period

In the Edo period, sweets made with white sugar, which was a luxury item, were called "jogashi" (superior sweets). In contrast, sweets made by common people using coarse grains and starch syrup were called "dagashi" (inferior or cheap sweets).[1]

The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries cites an example from Sendai. In Edo-period Sendai, common people were forbidden from eating white sugar and were only allowed to eat "zasshi" (mixed sweets, the dagashi of the time) made with brown sugar.[2]

The case in Sendai was not a rule applied uniformly across the entire country. However, two sources indicate that white sugar was considered a luxury item during this period.

3. Why Meiji-Era Dagashiya Were Called "Ichimon-ya" (One-Mon Shops)

During the Meiji era, dagashiya were called "ichimon-ya" (one-mon shops). This name is said to have been used to represent "cheap sweets" because "mon" was the smallest unit of currency in the Edo period.[3]

A multilingual explanation from the Japan Tourism Agency also introduces dagashiya as shops selling inexpensive sweets and toys that originated in the Meiji era.[4] Combining these two sources, we can say that "in the Meiji era, there were already shops selling cheap sweets."

It is not clear from the collected materials exactly when or where the first dagashiya was born. Therefore, rather than stating definitively that they "started in the Meiji era," we say that "there were shops called by this name in the Meiji era."

4. How Selling Sweets One Piece at a Time Made Dagashiya a Social Hub for Children

In dagashiya, sweets were sold cheaply, one piece at a time, so that children could buy them with their own pocket money. One shop owner explains that many squid-flavored snacks made from pollock are available because "this way, it costs 10 yen," ensuring children can afford them.[1] However, this is one owner's explanation and cannot be applied to the entire industry.

Dagashiya are said to have flourished most in the early Showa period. They sold items like sweet potato jelly, karameyaki (sugar candy), okoshi (puffed rice), and senbei, as well as toys like begoma (spinning tops) and marbles, becoming a social gathering place for children.[3] Another source explains that dagashiya served as social hubs for children until the 1960s (Showa 40s).[6]

Shops where small sweets could be bought one by one were places where children with little money could spend time with friends.

5. Did the Name of Monja-Yaki Come From "Monji-yaki"?

It is said that the name "monja-yaki" changed from "monji-yaki" (character-yaki). A children's page from the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries explains that wheat flour was mixed with water and used to write characters on an iron plate with a spatula while teaching, which was called "monji-yaki." This name is said to have changed into "monja-yaki."[5]

Sources disagree on when this custom began. The ministry's page describes it as a practice from just after the end of the war, when paper and calligraphy tools were scarce.[5] Another source states that from the late Edo period through the Meiji era, children wrote characters on iron plates with batter to learn while eating them, and that it became popular in dagashiya after the war.[6]

We do not decide here which time period is correct. We present two separate facts: "It is said that 'monji-yaki' is the origin of the name" and "There are sources stating that monja was eaten at dagashiya."

6. Why Dagashiya Became Fewer and Popular Snacks Went Up in Price

As products from major candy manufacturers became cheaply available and entertainment like video games increased, children stopped flocking to dagashiya to buy sweets and toys. As convenience stores gradually increased, the number of dagashiya is said to have slowly decreased.[3][4] However, the collected materials do not provide specific numbers for the timing or number of shops that closed.

Price changes are illustrated by the "Umaibo" (corn stick). Launched in 1979 at 10 yen per stick, the price rose to 12 yen (excluding tax) starting from shipments dated April 1, 2022. This was the first price increase in 42 years since its launch.[7]

The increase from 10 yen to 12 yen is a 2-yen rise, which is a 20% increase. The manufacturer cites rising costs of raw materials like corn and vegetable oil, packaging materials, logistics, and labor as reasons.[7] The shop owner's feeling that only four types of 10-yen dagashi remain is likely rooted in this background.

7. Ideas You Can Try or Research Yourself About Dagashiya and Sweets Prices

You might try researching or experimenting with the following ideas. Ask your parents or guardians, "What could you buy for 10 yen or 50 yen when you were a child?" Compare those stories with the prices of sweets today to see what differences emerge.

Look at the price tags of small sweets sold individually in supermarkets or convenience stores. You can calculate how much each piece costs on your own.

If there is a dagashiya in your neighborhood, go there with an adult and ask the shopkeeper when the store opened. You can compare their story with the account in this article about a shop that took its current form in the Showa era.

Sources

  1. nippon.com article on dagashi https://www.nippon.com/ja/views/b02101/ (Discusses jogashi vs dagashi, single-item sales, and the history of Kamikawaguchi-ya.)
  2. Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries "Sendai Dagashi" https://www.maff.go.jp/j/keikaku/syokubunka/traditional-foods/menu/sendai-dagasi.html (Explains the sweets eaten by commoners in Sendai.)
  3. Bunshun Online article on dagashiya https://bunshun.jp/articles/-/45201?page=3 (Covers the term "ichimon-ya" and dagashiya in the early Showa period.)
  4. Japan Tourism Agency Multilingual Database "Showa Romanzo Dagashiya Yume Museum" https://www.mlit.go.jp/tagengo-db/en/R1-02612.html (Describes shops originating in the Meiji era and the decline of dagashiya.)
  5. Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Kids Navi "Monja-yaki" https://www.maff.go.jp/j/syokuiku/kodomo_navi/cuisine/cuisine2_6.html (Explains the origin of the name "monji-yaki.")
  6. Da Vinci Web "Origin of Monja-yaki" https://ddnavi.com/article/d689604/a/ (Discusses the timeline of monji-yaki and dagashiya as social hubs.)
  7. Gourmet Watch "Umaibo Price Increase" (reporting Yaokin's announcement) https://gourmet.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/news/1383783.html (Details the 2022 price hike and its reasons.)
  8. Gendai Business article on 10-yen dagashi https://gendai.media/articles/-/124814 (Covers the founding of Kamikawaguchi-ya and the shop owner's comments on 10-yen sweets.)