1. What Jikatabi Are: Work Tabi with a Rubber Sole and Split Toes
Jikatabi are work tabi (traditional Japanese split-toe footwear) that have a rubber sole attached to the bottom of the foot, with the toes divided into two parts: the big toe and the other four toes [1]. On the heel side, they are worn by fastening small metal hooks called kohaze onto loops of thick thread. Instead of tying laces like a shoe, they keep the structure of a tabi but with a reinforced sole.
The character for "ground" in jikatabi is an ateji (a kanji used for its sound, not its meaning). It is said that the original character was "direct." There are two theories about the name: one says it means tabi that touch the ground directly without wearing shoes, and the other says they were used in underground coal mines. Experts do not agree on which theory is correct [7].
2. How the Split Toe Lets Workers Grip the Ground and Feel It Through the Sole
Because the big toe is independent, the wearer can walk as if gripping the ground. It is said that the condition of the sole can be sensed like a palm [2]. This is explained as the reason why jikatabi are suitable for riggers who work at heights on unstable scaffolding.
The users are also widespread. They are used by people in agriculture and forestry, as well as construction craftspeople such as carpenters, plasterers, and riggers [1]. For example, if you think of mittens versus five-fingered gloves, the separated fingers are better for fine movements. However, many people cannot move their toes as freely as their fingers, so it is not exactly the same.
3. How Workers Protected Their Feet Before Rubber Soles: Leather and Thick Cotton Tabi
Before rubber-soled jikatabi were created, working people had already devised ways to protect their feet. Tabi made of leather and sashiko tabi (made of thick cotton with quilted stitching) were used. It is said that from the Edo period, people working in mountains and fields, as well as firefighters, used leather tabi to protect their feet [2].
In 1921, a tabi company in Kurume began manufacturing tabi with rubber soles sewn on. These were commonly called "mamezoko" (bean sole). The soles were still attached by sewing [3].
4. How Tennis Shoes Inspired the Invention of Rubber-Soled Jikatabi
In early 1922, Tokujiro Ishibashi is said to have bought American-made tennis shoes at Mitsukoshi and used them as a hint for his invention [3]. He changed the method from sewing the rubber sole on to gluing it on. Production succeeded in August of the same year, and they were released as "Asahi Jikatabi" in January 1923 [3].
The wavy rubber sole, which is less slippery, is also credited to Tokujiro’s idea [3]. In October 1923, the gluing method was confirmed as a utility model right [4]. The history of a company following this same trend records the gluing method as a "revolution in footwear history" [4].
According to the history of Bridgestone, production was 1,000 pairs per day when they were released, but it increased to 10,000 pairs by the end of the year [3]. This is a 10-fold increase. However, this is a corporate record, not a statistic for all of Japan.
5. How Coal Miners, Electricians, and Rural Workers Used Jikatabi
When jikatabi were new, they were tested by about 1,000 people at the Mitsui Miike Coal Mine [3]. For electricians, the rubber sole helped prevent danger because it does not conduct electricity easily. In mines, they were accepted as being helpful for disease prevention, and sales activities were also carried out in rural areas [3]. It seems the background to their spread was that the reason they were helpful differed for each job.
Safety Note: For those working with electricity, it was reported that the insulation of the rubber sole helped prevent danger. In mines, they were accepted as being helpful for disease prevention. When observing workers, always keep a safe distance.
6. How Jikatabi Are Designed for Different Jobs and Made by Today's Makers
Looking at manufacturer product information, jikatabi are made differently for each job. For riggers, the fit around the space between the toes is tightened to increase the sense of unity with the foot. For agricultural work, there is a round-toe type without a toe crotch. For forestry, there is a durable glued type, and for muddy ground, there are types with special coating on the upper part [5].
From the perspective of a gardener, the thin, flat sole allows them to feel the state of the ground. Also, when climbing trees for pruning, they can grasp branches with their toes to support their body. This is listed as an advantage [6]. This is a personal experience written in a company column, so it is good to read it as one voice.
A tabi manufacturer founded in 1919 makes jikatabi that protect the feet of craftspeople, including riggers, and festival participants. They opened a shop in Kyobashi, Tokyo, in August 2019 [8].
7. Try It Yourself: Experiments and Questions to Investigate Jikatabi
You can try or investigate the following things. On a flat floor, with bare feet or wearing socks, try opening and closing your toes. Can you move only your big toe? You can also try grabbing a towel with your toes.
Look at people doing construction or agricultural work in town from a distance. Are they wearing shoes or jikatabi? To avoid interfering with their work, just watch from far away.
In festival processions, look at their feet. What kind of footwear can you see?