1. How a Cloth Worn by Soldiers Became the Cravat
The ancestor of today’s necktie is a neck cloth called the "cravat," which became popular in Europe in the 17th century. It is said that the name comes from a word meaning "Croatian" [2]. During the Thirty Years' War (1618–1648), Croatian soldiers hired by France wrapped cloth around their necks. This caught the attention of people in Paris, and it seems they began to imitate it [1][2][3]. The type of cloth varied by rank; soldiers used lace, while officers used high-quality silk [2].
The exact year this style arrived in France varies in different records. Some sources say 1660, while others state that Louis XIV adopted the style at age 7 in 1646. These dates do not match. Therefore, this notebook only states as certain that it "became popular in 17th-century France" [2][3]. In 2008, the Croatian Parliament decided that October 18 would be "Cravat Day" [4]. So, how did this cloth become the necktie we know today?
2. How the Neck Cloth Changed into the Modern Necktie Shape
After the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, the neck cloth is said to have started being called a "tie" [2]. In 19th-century Britain, there was a man named George Bryan Brummell who promoted simple, clean fashion. It seems that bow ties and ascot ties were also born in this era [1].
The method closest to today’s construction appeared in the 1920s. An American named Jesse Langsdorf devised a method of cutting the cloth diagonally and sewing three pieces together [3]. Cutting the cloth diagonally allows it to stretch slightly, which helps the necktie hang straight without twisting from the knot [3]. The year this happened differs by source: 1922 [3] or 1926 [1]. The Japanese Wikipedia article lists it as the "1920s" [5].
3. How the Necktie Reached Japan and Began to Be Made There
It is said that the first person to bring a necktie to Japan was John Manjiro (Nakahama Manjiro), who returned from America at the end of the Edo period [5][6]. However, because records regarding the specific year do not match, this notebook simply states it was "the end of the Edo period."
In October 1884 (Meiji 17), a bow tie made by Umeichi Oyama, who sold hats, is considered the first domestically produced necktie [6]. To commemorate this date, the Japan Necktie Association decided in 1971 that October 1 would be "Necktie Day" [6]. Meanwhile, the Kyoto Nishijin Textile Cooperative states that domestic neckties began in Nishijin in 1892 (Meiji 25) [7]. Both 1884 and 1892 are considered "beginnings," but the respective sources do not explain why there are two dates.
4. What a Necktie Is Used For Today
A necktie is not a tool to protect the body from cold or heat. Tracing its origins, it began as attire to indicate social status and is now used as part of clothing appropriate for specific occasions. However, its purpose cannot be defined by a single answer. We look at its origins and several studies.
Originally, the cravat indicated status. Soldiers wore lace, while officers wore fine cloth, so the material differed by rank [2]. It was attire where the wearer’s position was visible at the neck.
Regarding formal clothing and mindset, American researcher Slepian and others published results from five experiments in 2015. The content suggested that wearing formal clothes makes it easier to think in broad, abstract terms [8]. However, this was about clothing as a whole, not specifically neckties.
Separately, a study examined physical effects. Rüddecke and others published results in 2018 from an MRI study of 30 volunteers. The report stated that wearing a necktie reduced cerebral blood flow by a statistically significant difference [9]. However, this was a change observed during the examination; the abstract does not state how this affects health in daily life.
5. Cool Biz and What the Numbers Say About Neckties
Cool Biz started on June 1, 2005. Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi and Environment Minister Yuriko Koike led the initiative, calling for offices to be kept at 28 degrees Celsius and for people to work in light clothing without ties or jackets [10]. The purpose was to combat global warming, and that year was also when the Kyoto Protocol, a promise to reduce carbon dioxide, took effect [10]. Japan’s Ministry of the Environment’s current explanation states "liberalization of clothing according to TPO (Time, Place, Occasion)" and "comfortable, easy-to-work-in light clothing based on individual judgment," without mentioning the word "necktie" [11].
The necktie industry faced difficulties. According to the Tokyo Necktie Cooperative Association, the Japan Necktie Association issued a protest statement to Prime Minister Koizumi and cabinet members in June 2005 [6]. The association also submitted a request to the Ministry of the Environment to stop using the term "no necktie" [12]. In the summer of 2006, they reportedly created signs with the message "Choose your necktie according to TPO" [12].
Looking at the numbers, the combined total of domestically produced and imported neckties was about 42.5 million in 2004 [13]. In 2022, it was about 11 million [14], roughly one-quarter of the 2004 figure. However, in 2005, the year Cool Biz started, the number was about 40.3 million, a decrease of only about 5% from the previous year [13]. It seems the decline was gradual.
6. Which Necktie Colors Fit Weddings, Funerals, and Other Occasions
At weddings, white or silver neckties are used. Black is generally avoided as a matter of etiquette because it reminds people of funerals [16]. At funerals, black neckties are worn [5]. These are social manners, not laws.
Impressions of colors are guidelines. Red tones are said to suggest passion or leadership, blue tones sincerity or calm, and yellow tones approachability [15]. However, these are not rules but psychological guidelines.
7. Necktie Types and the 85 Ways to Tie Them
In a standard necktie, the narrow end is called the "small blade," and the wide end hanging in front is called the "large blade" [5]. Types include bow ties, ascot ties, and loop ties (also called polar ties) [5]. Patterns include solid, striped, dotted, small patterns, paisley, and checkered [5].
Basic knots are the Plain Knot, Windsor Knot, and Half Windsor Knot [5]. Researchers Fink and Mao from Cambridge University published in the scientific journal Nature in 1999 that there are 85 ways to tie a standard necktie [17]. Besides the four widely used knots, they introduced six new knots considered beautiful [17]. The criteria for "beautiful" are said to be symmetry and balance [3].
8. How You Can Check the Numbers and Dates Yourself
The numbers and dates in this notebook can be verified by yourself using published materials.
Things you can do today: Ask an adult to show you a necktie. Look at the large blade and small blade, count the stitches, and check if three pieces are sewn together [3]. Open the statistics page of the Tokyo Necktie Cooperative Association and look at the table of annual numbers with your own eyes [13].
Notebook tip: Writing down just one number that interests you can be an entry point for further research later. "1884, Umeichi Oyama" is enough.
Safety Note: Ask an adult to show you their necktie.