1. The Four Steps of Soba Making: Wetting, Kneading, Rolling, and Cutting
The process of making soba proceeds in this order: wetting the flour, kneading, rolling, and cutting [5]. The first step, wetting the flour, is the task of distributing water evenly throughout the flour. When the flour forms small granules, the remaining water is added to bring it together into one mass. From there, it is rolled out evenly with a rolling pin, folded, and cut with a knife [5]. Although it looks like a simple task using only flour and water, ensuring no dry parts remain in the flour is what creates the strength needed when cutting.
However, it is said that the amount of water and the size of the granules change depending on the region, the school of thought, and the season [4]. For now, just remember the order of the steps. But why does simply distributing water result in noodles that can be cut without breaking?
2. Why Buckwheat Flour Alone Is Hard to Bind Together
When water is added to wheat flour and kneaded, it develops stickiness and elasticity. This happens because two types of proteins contained in wheat flour absorb water and form a net-like structure called "gluten" [3]. On the other hand, buckwheat flour and rice flour are said not to contain the proteins that create gluten [3]. Because of this, dough made only from buckwheat flour is said to be difficult to bind together when rolling or cutting [4].
Therefore, it is common to mix in wheat flour as a "tsunagi" (binder) to connect the dough. It is said that with a binder, the noodles become less likely to break and gain a firm texture [4]. As an example of a rough ratio, one reference mentions 400g of buckwheat flour to 100g of wheat flour [4]. However, this is just one example and does not mean every shop uses this exact mix.
Soba with a binder has names that indicate the ratio of flours. "2-8" is not a multiplication of numbers.
3. What the Numbers in "2-8 Soba" and "10-Wari Soba" Mean
You may have seen names like "10-wari soba" or "2-8 soba" on restaurant menus. These names represent the ratio of buckwheat flour to binder [1]. 10-wari soba is soba made with 100% buckwheat flour. 2-8 soba is made with 80% buckwheat flour and 20% binder. 9-1 is a mix of 90% buckwheat flour and 10% wheat flour [1]. "2-8" refers to the ratio of 2 to 8, not 2 times 8.
The less binder used, the higher the percentage of buckwheat flour. 10-wari soba is made without binder, using only buckwheat flour and water to form noodles. Because of this, it is said that the work from wetting the flour to kneading and rolling becomes even more difficult [5]. So, when was the long, thin shape known as "soba-giri" first born?
4. How People Ate Soba Before It Was Made Into Noodles
Soba existed in Japan before it was eaten as long, thin noodles. It is said that before the mid-Edo period, it was eaten in the form of "soba-gaki," which is buckwheat flour kneaded with hot water and solidified [1]. The long, thin noodle shape called "soba-giri" appeared after the mid-Edo period. According to an article by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, there is a theory that the origin is Shinshu (present-day Nagano Prefecture) [1]. The strength of binding required in the flour differs between soba-gaki, which is kneaded with hot water, and noodles, which are rolled out long and cut.
However, there are various theories regarding the time and place of origin [1]. In fact, records of soba-giri have been found from before the mid-Edo period.
5. The Oldest Record of Soba-Giri: A Meal for Temple Craftsmen in 1574
Materials from the Kiso region of Nagano Prefecture state that in the 2nd year of Tensho (1574), "soba-giri" was served to craftsmen who were repairing the main hall [2]. This is considered the oldest record regarding "soba-giri." It is a record from about 450 years ago.
Here is an important point. This record is the "oldest record" of soba-giri, not the "beginning" of it. The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries article also notes that there are "various theories" about the time and place of origin [1]. The year 1574 is just before the start of the Edo period. This means that soba-giri was already recorded as food served to craftsmen at a temple. The entry point to verify this story with your own hands is in the bag near your home.
6. How to Read the Ingredient List on a Bag of Dried Soba
If you have dried soba at home, look at the "ingredients" list on the back of the bag. Check whether buckwheat flour or wheat flour is listed first, and whether the ratio is written. If there is a name like "2-8" or "10-wari," you can verify the meaning of the mix.
When eating soba at a restaurant, it is also good to check if it is labeled "10-wari" or "2-8." Even for the same soba, the feeling when eating it may differ depending on the mix.
If there is a place nearby where you can watch soba making, try to follow the order from wetting the flour to cutting with your own eyes. You will see the flour change from loose pieces into one mass. At that moment, if you look for "which instant the flour became noodle-shaped," you can verify the steps you read in this article right before your eyes.