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What Decides the Color and Smell of Wine, and Why Do People Smell It Differently?

Category: Nature

Red and white wine can both be made from grapes; the color often depends on how the grape skins are used. The color comes from pigments, and in red wine they come out of the skins [1]. The smell comes from many small molecules that float up from the glass and reach the nose [3]. One of those molecules, which smells like black pepper, can be noticed at about 16 billionths of a gram per liter, yet about a quarter of people cannot smell it at all [5]. This article follows color first, then smell, and ends with a puzzle: if people smell the same thing differently, how can anyone talk about it? (Wine is an alcoholic drink for adults. Nothing here asks anyone to taste it.)

1. Why Is Red Wine Red and White Wine Pale?

Grape juice itself is almost colorless. The red comes from a family of pigments called anthocyanins, which dissolve in water and can look red, purple, or blue depending on how acidic the liquid is [1]. In red wine, the main red color comes from these pigments or from related ones that are extracted or formed while the wine is being made [1]. Winemakers get the pigments by leaving the crushed grapes in contact with their skins during fermentation. Many rosés are the same idea cut short: the skins of red grapes soak for a few hours to a few days, so the juice is stained only pink [2]. So the color of a wine says a lot about how it was made, not only about which grapes went in. The next puzzle is why the red lasts, and what happens to it over the years.

2. How Does Wine Change Color as It Ages?

Red and white wines often change color in opposite ways as they age, and both can eventually turn brown. Red wines lose color: they move toward garnet, a brick-red shade, and eventually brown. A wine-education site reports that as much as 85% of the red pigment can be lost within five years, even while the wine still looks quite red [2]. White wines go the other way. They darken from pale yellow to deeper gold and eventually brown, and oxidation, meaning slow reaction with oxygen, is the cause, much like a cut apple turning brown [2]. The review article on red-wine pigments adds a hint about why red can last at all: acidic wine is a hard place for the original grape pigments, and new pigments built from them during winemaking help keep the color going [1]. That is color. The smell has a longer and stranger story.

3. Where Does Wine's Smell Come From?

A glass of wine contains volatile molecules: molecules that can escape into the air and reach the nose [3]. Traditionally they are sorted into three groups by origin: smells that come from the grape itself, smells made by yeast during fermentation, and smells that develop while the wine matures [3]. A 2016 review of 82 experiments questioned how neat that sorting really is. For example, many floral-smelling molecules in wine turn out to be made by the grape from one starting molecule, linalool, and then changed further [3]. So a good way to think of it is this: the grape supplies some smells directly, the yeast and the aging add others, and the three groups blur together. Some of these molecules are so potent that a tiny amount is enough, and one famous case shows just how tiny.

4. How Little of a Smell Can the Nose Notice?

Some Shiraz wines (also called Syrah) smell of black pepper. Researchers at the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI), a wine research organization in Adelaide, identified the molecule behind it, called rotundone [5]. It is found in peppercorns and in many culinary herbs as well. In AWRI's work, the detection threshold for rotundone in red wine was about 16 nanograms per liter [5]. A nanogram is a billionth of a gram. My own arithmetic: one gram divided by 16 billionths is about 62.5 million, so noticing it is like finding one gram dissolved in 62.5 million liters, roughly 25 Olympic swimming pools (each holds about 2.5 million liters). A grape's smell can depend on where it grew. AWRI's project found that rotundone forms very late in the season, that a late harvest helps, and that peppery vineyards in Victoria, such as the Grampians and Pyrenees regions, make wines with much more of it than Barossa or McLaren Vale [4] [6]. The same project found that the amount depends on the site and environment more than on the vine's genetics [4]. But there is a second surprise, and it is about people rather than grapes.

5. Why Can Some People Not Smell Black Pepper in Wine?

AWRI reports that around 25% of people cannot smell rotundone, even at very high levels [5] [6]. That is not a figure about wine skill or effort. It is an ordinary difference between noses. It means that two people can honestly describe the same glass in different ways, and neither is wrong. Smell science has a name for the lowest concentration someone can notice: the detection threshold, and it differs by molecule and by person [3]. I could not read the 2008 research paper that first measured this in a panel of tasters, so the "about 25%" here comes from AWRI's own fact sheet and article, which is an estimate, not a count of every person. If noses differ this much, how can anyone write about smell in a way others will understand?

6. How Did Scientists Create a Shared Vocabulary for Smell?

Ann C. Noble was a professor at the University of California, Davis, and the first woman hired in its department of Enology and Viticulture, the study of wine and grape growing. She published the first article on the Wine Aroma Wheel in 1984 [7]. She noticed that earlier lists of wine words included vague opinions like "harmonious" or "elegant," which say whether someone likes a wine but not what it smells of. By her own account, she and her colleagues gathered terms from tasting studies and classes, sorted them by similarity, asked the wine industry which ones were useful, and dropped the opinion words [7]. They borrowed the circular layout from earlier word wheels made for the brewing and Scotch whisky industries [7]. The wheel does not say what a wine should smell like. It gives people plain, shared words, like "pepper" or "citrus," so that a difference in noses can at least be talked about. That is a good tool for you, too, without needing any wine at all.

7. Can You Practice Describing Smells at Home?

Pick three smelly things from the kitchen, such as ground pepper, a piece of orange peel, and dried tea leaves. Close your eyes and sniff each one from a little distance, gently, and keep loose powder away from your nose. Use no flame and no knife. Say three plain words for each, like "sour," "sweet," or "woody." If someone is nearby, ask them to do the same; otherwise write down your words and compare them later with someone else's. If your words differ, that is normal, and it is the same puzzle the researchers faced. To explore further, with an adult, search for "Wine Aroma Wheel" and look at how the words are grouped from broad to specific.

Sources

  1. Review article "Anthocyanins and Their Variation in Red Wines I" (PMC6268338, a peer-reviewed review). https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6268338/ (Read the introduction and summary through Europe PMC; the full text could not be read. Used for what anthocyanins are, their pH-dependent color, and that red color comes from them or their derivatives made during winemaking. Claims about stabilizing new pigments are kept general for that reason.)
  2. Wine Folly, "Complete Wine Color Chart". https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/complete-wine-color-chart/ (Read in full. A wine-education website, not a research source. Used for aging color changes, the 85% figure, rosé skin contact, and oxidation browning.)
  3. Review article "Meta-Analysis of the Core Aroma Components of Grape and Wine Aroma" (PMC5042961, Frontiers in Plant Science). https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5042961/ (Read the abstract and introduction through Europe PMC. Used for volatile compounds, the traditional three-group sorting, the questioning of it, and linalool.)
  4. Australian Wine Research Institute, "Project 4.4.4: Rotundone and its role in defining terroir". https://www.awri.com.au/research_and_development/2017-2025-rde-plan-projects/project-4-4-4/ (Read the summary, which was partly cut off. Used for regional differences and site and environment effects.)
  5. Australian Wine Research Institute, fact sheet "Pepper flavour in wine" (updated January 2023). https://www.awri.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/fact-sheet-pepper-flavour-in-wine.pdf (Read the first part. Used for the 16 ng/L threshold, the roughly 25% who cannot smell rotundone, and its presence in peppercorns and herbs. The fact sheet's own swimming-pool comparison was not reused; the arithmetic here is mine.)
  6. Barter et al., "Better late than never: the formation of distinctive pepper aromas in cool-climate Shiraz" (AWRI). https://www.awri.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/s2265.pdf (Read the opening part. Used for late formation of rotundone, late harvest, and the 16 ng/L and 25% figures, which match the fact sheet.)
  7. Ann C. Noble, "About" page of the Wine Aroma Wheel. https://www.winearomawheel.com/about.html (Read the first part. This is the inventor's own site, so it is her account; it sells the wheel. Used for the 1984 publication and how the terms were collected.)

Revision history

  • 2026-10-23: First published.